Photo courtesy of David Taffet and unsplash.com.
The founders of Dark Dog Posse recently fostered a litter of puppies that simply did not seem to get along and quickly escalated from playing to fighting with little provocation. We reached out to Sydney Warner, BS, ABCDT, Dip.CBST, IAABC-ADT, Elite FFCP, and owner of Clever Critters—a certified dog training and behavior consultant resource—for help and this is what she had to tell us.
It seems that in a family with more than one dog, there is bound to be a fight at some point. Is this a way for the dogs to establish dominance, or do some dogs just sometimes annoy others and it’s not a big issue?
More and more homes are becoming multi-dog households. This can come with some challenges that single-dog homes don’t have to work with. Fights between canine housemates are not an inevitability. There are plenty of multi-dog homes that don’t experience true dog fights. There may be disagreements and “off days,” but dogs with good communication skills don’t escalate into fights.
Dogs have fluid relationships, not an established hierarchy based on who is the top dog. I’m not saying that “dominance” isn’t real, but it’s not what the general public and pet community believe it to be. True moments of dominance aren’t all about aggression or establishing the “alpha” either. We could really dive deep into this research, but perhaps that is better saved for another day!
When it comes to housemates fighting, there are a variety of factors that could contribute to each relationship and fight. This could be poor relationships between housemates (I don’t always get along with my siblings, and I certainly don’t like everyone I meet nor would I want to live with them). Some dogs fight due to their health and pain, poor mental health such as chronic anxiety, overarousal escalating into frustration or discomfort, and negative associations with their housemate due to aversive training history, poor communication skills, and many other reasons. When we get contacted for housemates fighting it is unfortunately usually a chronic concern by then, and what we consider “interhousehold aggression.” This is just a label that doesn’t fully explain or encompass the specifics of each case though.
If fights are “the norm” and occur regularly, lead to injuries (human or dog), or are escalating either in frequency, duration, or intensity, this is a very big issue. It is normal that some dogs annoy their housemates, especially if there are differences in age, temperament, activity levels, or physical capabilities. However, these alone don’t guarantee that annoyance will lead to a fight.
Is this more common amongst siblings? If so, do you recommend that siblings not be adopted together?
Even without the concern of fights potentially being more prevalent, I would not recommend that most people acquire two similarly aged puppies around the same time. Even though “littermate syndrome” is not really an accurate label (it’s not a syndrome, and it’s not just littermates), there are many real concerns. The two most common concerns I have personally experienced, and that are noted in the (limited) literature regarding this topic, are distress and anxiety when separated from each other, or the presence or development of aggression between the two.
Generally, the development of aggression is likely to occur when the pair are approaching sexual or social maturity (potentially six months to two or three years). Your dogs are becoming teenagers or young adults and there are a lot of hormones, emotions, and altered brain chemistry. Did you know that their brains are not fully developed at this age, specifically the area responsible for self-control? Your young dog isn’t choosing to act out or to get into fights. They truly do not have the ability to show the self-control so many pet parents are demanding of them. This means adolescent dogs can be prone to developing unwanted behaviors such as “reactivity” and aggression, even to siblings or housemates they have lived with their whole lives.
As with anything, this is not a rule or a guarantee, but the risks are certainly higher in most pet-parent homes. Even as a behavior professional, I personally would not want to bring multiple young dogs into my home simultaneously.
With a group of puppies, it seems like one pup is often singled out and the others constantly pick on him/her and sometimes gang up together on him/her. Is there anything that can be done to prevent or lessen that from happening?
Though it is normal for puppies to have “disagreements” with each other, escalation of behavior should always be addressed. Puppies are still learning, and that means they can learn appropriate interactions or less beneficial and unhealthy interactions. Genetics play a large role in behavior. Some breeds, or some breeding lines, may exhibit more or less conflict-type behaviors. However, we want to be cautious about the way we set our puppies and their environments up so that they have the chance to reach their potential. We shouldn’t label puppies, or any dog, based on their behavior.
If there is a puppy in a group that is being singled out or one that is being particularly pushy, I intervene. This may look like me making kissy noises and inviting or encouraging said puppies to disengage there and engage me instead so that I can redirect them to other activities. Or it may look like me physically removing a puppy either through redirection to a toy right there, or luring them away with other goodies.
Being proactive in setting up a healthy and enriching environment goes a long way to promote and support more appropriate interactions between puppies, whether they are littermates or a group socializing. So how can we do that? By removing potential conflict and creating more beneficial and positive opportunities. Perhaps the group needs to be separated into smaller groups versus one large one. Don’t feed puppies out of the same dish—they each deserve their own time and space to eat without worrying about someone stealing. Provide a variety of novel items to play with and investigate. Rotate activities and toys so it isn’t always the same things.
Sometimes bickering may occur because the puppy is tired and not getting a chance to nap. A tired dog is absolutely not a “good dog.” A tired dog or puppy can get cranky and sensitive. Separation to reduce arousal and promote frequent and efficient naps is crucial at this age.
Lastly, making sure we are meeting the needs of each puppy as an individual, not just as a group is key. Needs include physical health—does the puppy feel good? Mental stimulation—what is the puppy learning passively AND actively through training sessions, solo challenges, and more, safety and security. The puppy should not only be in a safe space, they should also feel secure and comfortable in the space. Natural species-typical behaviors and breed specific behaviors—some puppies need to use their mouths more and chew or shred, others may need more scent-based games, some digging, and so many other possibilities.
It also seems that with a litter of puppies, they are constantly jockeying for “position in the pack,” so to speak. But there is a difference between wrestling and lighting the fuse. What causes that when they really go after each other?
Labels or ideas like “dominance,” “alpha,” or “pack leader” are outdated and misunderstood. They are also not helpful when we discuss behavior. All of these can look very different to anyone you ask. My focus is on observable behaviors. Puppies wrestle, and sometimes arousal escalates into frustration or discomfort. That’s when they risk going over their threshold and play is no longer play. I need to know what that looks like from the behavior displayed and the body language they are using to communicate. When you can read the subtleties of canine body language and don’t rely on labeling behavior, you can better see when things are getting heated and aren’t going to resolve before escalating or exploding.
Many things may contribute to an escalation of play into more distressed behaviors. Puppies are still learning how to communicate and interact with others. Sometimes cues get missed or go “unheard” by the other puppy. Other times one or both puppies may have already been too aroused or even conflicted before “play” even began. This increase in adrenaline and cortisol is good in moderation, but when the body is already “primed” and ready to respond sometimes the responses are not the most appropriate.
Again, genetics play a role here. So does the type of environment we set up for the puppies. Puppies that have plentiful space, appropriate activities that meet their needs, and opportunities to engage and disengage are not nearly as likely to escalate to truly concerning behaviors. They are still learning, but we have a lot of influence at this age to promote healthy relationships and communication.
What are some of the signs to look for before that fuse lights and what can someone do to de-escalate the situation?
When dogs or puppies play, there are a few key things we want to look for to ensure appropriate play, but also to know when is the best time to intervene.
First, the body language, and specifically “meta-communication.” This is behavior and communication that tells the other dog “I’m just playing!” Look for bouncy movements, ineffective movements such as moving back and forth versus just forward, play bows, throwing their butt around, your individual dog’s “play laugh” panting, and lots of pauses to allow the other puppy to respond. We should also see activity shifts. These are when the puppies don’t stay engaged in just one form of play. They may wrestle, then tag, then bitey mouth, and more. During these activity shifts, we should also see some role-reversing. The puppy doing the chasing then invites the other to chase them. Or the top wrestler flops over to be on the bottom. You may even see some self-handicapping behaviors such as a larger puppy lying more on the ground during play while the smaller puppy gets to move more freely around and engage/disengage without fear of being squished.
Even if you are seeing these play behaviors, it is still our job to actively supervise and watch for behaviors that may escalate. Perhaps wrestling has been going on for a while, and one puppy is looking stuck and no longer playful and getting stiff or using their mouth to try and deter the other puppy. Stiff bodies and tense movements are a sure sign it may be time to intervene. It’s important for our puppies to have a moment to try and calm things down themselves. However, they never need to figure it out on their own. You also know your puppy best. If you know your puppy is a bit bullyish, very mouthy and grabby, likes to throw their weight around, and doesn’t “listen” well to other dogs, you may need to intervene right away when play is no longer still play. Not all puppies need to learn communication from other puppies. Sometimes a “nanny” dog, a dog that likes puppies, can tolerate their behaviors well, and has excellent skills at calming things down (note I didn’t say “corrects the puppy,”) is more appropriate for that puppy to begin with.
To de-escalate when play is becoming more conflict and frustration there are a few ways to start that allow the puppies to learn some skills, too. Invite, encourage, and playfully get your puppy’s attention and then move AWAY from them. Moving away while being interesting will get a lot of puppies to cease what they’re doing and follow you. You may need to also redirect them to another activity, or end play, or sometimes that brief pause and space is enough for play to resume. Interrupt and redirect in other ways too, such as pulling out a new toy or something of interest to get the puppy’s attention on something else. I also like to teach a positive interrupter cue that the puppy knows and loves. I had one client use the “peaches” paired with the dogs getting hotdog and cheese when they stopped and engaged with her.
If puppies can’t go back to play due to higher arousal, you may be able to engage them in training or something calming to help them settle and decompress.
As always, how proactive you are about the environment, including who is in it, can either set your puppy up for success or for failure. Some puppies are not a good fit to play together, and some environments are not great to allow play in.
When dogs or puppies are in a full-out fight, what’s the best thing for the human guardians to do? We have heard that they just need to work through it, even if it means injury (not an option we like or use). We have also heard that you should take a hose to them or something along those lines, but it seems like when they are “seeing red,” there isn’t a lot that can separate them. Is there you can do and anything you absolutely shouldn’t do?
I never want dogs to “work it out” or “figure it out” on their own. This can and likely will have very serious and negative consequences. Instead, I want to coach my clients on how we can help the dogs work through their challenges safely and without risks to mental health. Why would we set them up to get injured, create further negative associations and relationships, or potentially more fatal results when there are safer and healthier options?
When consulting with clients who have two or more dogs fighting in the home, one of the biggest things we discuss first is management: how to prevent fights through changing environmental factors, such as adding or increasing gates, doors, leashes, muzzles, and more. After that is how to break up a dog fight because unfortunately, accidents can and will happen.
One thing my clients are instructed not to do if a fight breaks out is to put their hands or legs anywhere near the fighting dogs. The risks of redirected bites can be very high, and very serious. In most cases, there are plenty of tools we can have on hand to successfully break up fights and hopefully without any injuries. It is not as common for a fight to break out that absolutely nothing can interrupt. That is a much more serious case.
I recommend every dog household watch aggression expert Michael Shikashio and certified animal behavior professional Trish McMillian’s webinar on defensive handling and emergency scenarios. https://youtu.be/R5aKUrPLkco?si=3F4XpNMqJnmsTkeD There is a lot of necessary and helpful information when it comes to dog aggression in a variety of situations, including dog fights.
As for tools that I recommend to clients, we discuss having some or all of the following: compressed air, citronella animal deterrent spray, physical items such as pig boards for inserting between dogs, a hose or bucket of water, and even throwing clothing over the dogs. All of these are for emergencies only and are never to be used as part of our behavior change protocols. If any of these are being used frequently, there are bigger holes we need to address in our behavior care plan.
It usually seems like after a fight is over, that’s it. Is there anything human guardians should keep an eye on though, and if so, what should they be prepared to do?
Dogs don’t actually want to be confrontational. It’s dangerous and risky! However, many dogs easily learn that aggression is the only way or the best way to deal with triggers. There are many times when once the fight has ceased everyone goes their own way. However, depending on the dogs, their learning history, their genetics, how severe the fight was, and their body’s ability to deal with the chemicals and hormones fueling the response, fights can easily start back up or worsen.
You should know your dog and feel comfortable reading their body language. Ideally, you have some idea of the other dog too, and it isn’t a stranger dog you and your dog have never met. You know if once your dog is having big feelings how they can handle it, and if that day is a good (less triggers, easily tolerated) or a bad (more triggers, not tolerated) day. Watch for staring, stiff bodies, forward movements, and high body positions with ears, head, tail, and body. Can your dog disengage and instead engage with the environment? Or are they still watching the other dog closely? Is the mouth tense? Are the lips pulling back or pushing forward?
There are a lot of different body language signals our dogs use to communicate they are uncomfortable. Not every dog shows the exact same signals, but there are many dog-specific communication cues that are naturally occurring.
After a fight, get space. Even if the dogs seem to be “fine”, everyone needs some space after a fight. If your dog is showing any signs of still being distressed and focused on the other dog, you should be prepared to remove your dog immediately or get you and your dog to a safe space if the other dog is not disengaging.
We’re guessing there are also times that two dogs just don’t get along and will continue to get into altercations. What then? Can training or behavior modification help? What needs to be done? How can someone like you help?
Absolutely there are times when two (or more) dogs are just not the right fit and are having constant struggles with each other. The first things anyone should do if their dogs are fighting with any frequency is figure out what their management is and how to prevent the fights from occurring, have a very thorough vet check-up on both dogs to rule out medical contributors or factors, and then decide if they should contact a behavior specialist for help. More often than not, they should.
Interhousehold aggression, fear-based aggression, resource guarding, conflict aggression, and any other aggression concerns are never a training issue. It’s a need for a behavior professional, be it a consultant like my team and I, or a behaviorist, or a veterinary behaviorist. An ethical professional will not guarantee that the dogs can live harmoniously together because no one can ever guarantee the behavior of another being. There are so many factors as to why an individual behaves the way they do, and our goal is to change what we can and help create safety, comfort, a good quality of life, and protect the well-being of the pet and client.
Through a behavior change program, we may be able to patch up relationships between dogs and they can go back to living together. Hopefully, that includes the caregiver having a better understanding of how dogs behave, communicate, and learn. Other times it may not be realistic for the dogs to be together again. This can look like a lot of different scenarios though. It may be that the dogs are separated for specific events but are otherwise comfortable together. Or it may be that we have to discuss if the management to keep both dogs in the home safely is realistic or not. If it isn’t, then we need to discuss rehoming. There are rare occasions that one of the dogs is not well mentally for more than just their relationship with the other dog, and then we discuss the safety of the dog being in the home and the risks involved.
Our job as behavior consultants is to accurately assess the behaviors and the factors influencing them. From there we help the caregiver make realistic goals of what to expect short term and long term. We teach and guide both the caregiver and the pet through an appropriate behavior modification program, supporting both of them through challenges, and celebrating even the smallest wins. We understand how difficult and frustrating the journey can be, and we love it when we can see our clients and their pets achieve so much more than what they originally sought out from us.
Video Resources:
Introducing a new puppy into an adult dog home using management in the form of X-pens, and training with Pattern Games and classical conditioning.
An adolescent dog trying to initiate play with an adult dog. The adult dog is tolerating the puppy by meeting his energy and trying to remove himself. I assist before it escalates by giving them a calmer activity to do. (*Disclaimer: This will not work for all dogs, nor should it be tried with all dogs. These dogs have no history of guarding food in this context, even when overly aroused.)
One dog shifts and the other gets up and briefly snaps at her. He currently has physical pain which has contributed to a lower tolerance around his siblings and housemates. The third dog comes rushing to the end of the bed in response to hearing conflict. This littermate is physically separated unless she is being actively supervised.
Two littermates, and when one shifts her body weight, her brother is triggered and snaps at her. He is currently dealing with physical pain and is more likely to snap when there are unexpected movements nearby him. Both of these dogs used displacement behaviors to communicate with the other and they defused the situation on their own.